In the strip malls and industrial parks of Ottawa’s suburbs, some of the best dining experiences hide in plain sight. And if you’re a sushi lover with a penchant for the sublime, Nagi Sushi is one of those hidden gems, nestled quietly in Orléans. It’s a spot that, if you haven’t heard of it yet, you’re doing yourself a disservice by not seeking it out.

I was fortunate enough to snag one of the first spots at the counter when I arrived just after 11:30 a.m. The moment I stepped in, a wave of calm washed over me. The gentle piano music playing in the background, the soft glow of lanterns overhead, and the serene, welcoming space set the perfect stage for a sushi experience like no other. You don’t feel rushed here—you’re simply invited to slow down, take in the moment, and enjoy some of the finest sushi Ottawa has to offer.

If the name sounds familiar, it’s because Nagi is the latest venture of Moriyuki Hiroha, a sushi legend who spent over 30 years crafting delicate sushi at C'est Japon à Suisha, the iconic Slater Street restaurant that Ottawa’s sushi connoisseurs came to love before it closed in 2023. Hiroha has brought his expertise and passion for top-quality ingredients to this new venture in Orléans, and it’s already making waves. As he prepared my meal, Hiroha told me that he’s thrilled to see both his loyal Suisha customers and locals from the surrounding area filling up his new restaurant. He says about half of the guests at Nagi are former Suisha regulars—a testament to his long-standing reputation for excellence.

Hiroha’s commitment to the freshest ingredients is evident in every dish. The fish—especially the bluefin tuna—arrives fresh every weekend. He sources his products from Europe, Nova Scotia, British Columbia and Mexico, depending on a roster that changes according to the catch seasons. But while the sushi here is the star of the show, Nagi is more than just a sushi spot—it’s a place where every element of the meal is thoughtfully crafted, from the perfectly balanced miso soup to the delicate tempura.

During my visit, I sampled the bento box, which included a variety of goodies. The standout, by far, were the shrimp dumplings. These little gems had the texture of a perfect dim sum har gow—steamy, tender, and bursting with flavour. Between bites, I cleansed my palate with the crunchy pickled vegetables and turnips, refreshing and tangy. The maki rolls and chirashi were fresh and satisfying, but I kept thinking back to the octopus and clam dish Hiroha had graciously served me. The octopus, imported from Spain, was like nothing I’ve tasted before—creamy, tender, and perfectly complemented by a homemade vinaigrette. It was simple but artful, the kind of dish you want to savour slowly, almost feeling bad about eating because it’s just so beautiful.

The pork skewer in the bento box was also lovely, though it was almost eclipsed by my true favourite: the chicken karaage. There’s just something about that crispy, golden coating and the tender chicken inside that never fails to hit the spot. The karaage here at Nagi is a step above your usual fried chicken; it’s fresh, hot, and salty without being overwhelming—exactly what you want when you’re craving comfort food with a little bit of flair.

And then, the bento box surprise: the daifuku dessert. This Japanese rice cake with a pancake-like exterior and a nougaty interior was the perfect sweet finish, both chewy and creamy, with a subtle richness that rounded out the meal beautifully.

One of the things that really sets Nagi apart from other sushi joints is Hiroha’s magic at the sushi counter. Watching him work is like witnessing an artist in action—every slice of fish, every roll of rice, carefully crafted with precision and passion. If you’re lucky enough to grab a seat in front of him, you’ll see the care that goes into every piece of sushi. It’s an experience worth having, not just a meal, and one that will make you feel as if you've had a spiritual retreat rather than just lunch.

At $60 for my bento box and extra dishes, it’s an investment, but it’s worth every penny. The quality of the ingredients, the skill of the chef, and the serene ambiance make it clear that this is the kind of sushi experience you’ll want to come back to again and again. Be sure to make a reservation if you're planning to visit, especially on weekends—the word is getting out, and Nagi fills up fast.