Near Longfields station in Barrhaven, in a modern strip that looks like a transit-oriented development, a new Sri Lankan restaurant called Spiceylon has opened at 605 Longfields Drive, Unit 5. It’s about two and a half months old, and it’s a family story.

Owner Thayalan came to Canada from Jaffna, in northern Sri Lanka, more than 30 years ago. His brother runs Ceylonta, the downtown Sri Lankan restaurant that has been around for 33 years, so Thayalan knew the game. He wanted to try his own version. He ran a packaging business, and Ayini, the Sri Lankan restaurant that used to be in this space, was one of his customers and bought a lot from him in the early days. When he called the owner, he learned the restaurant had closed.

He says he wants to serve authentic food to the Sri Lankan and Tamil communities. He found a cook in Toronto, and the menu draws on two traditions: his wife’s Tamil recipes, including all the vegetarian food, and the cook’s Sinhalese cooking. His brother now sends customers over for the hoppers. They don’t cook in bulk, and everything goes through their own taste test. It’s halal, and sometimes people order 100 mutton rolls at once. Thayalan has held off on Uber because the extra volume would force them to compromise on quality, and he doesn’t want that.

We arrived around 2 p.m. on a Sunday, Danielle and I with three friends, and took a prime spot by the entrance. The room is cozy and warm, with three booths and a two-person table. Orange walls, straw-hut-style tops and a jungle scene on one wall helped take us away from the grey November drizzle outside.

Thayalan greeted us with a wide smile and a sparkle in his eyes, and when we asked him to bring us whatever he thought were the must-tries, five or six dishes came out in a steady stream. There was cuttlefish curry, kothu roti, a vegetarian thali with lots of lentils, cabbage and eggplant, beef roast and an exquisite crab curry. We spent more than two hours eating and chatting, and our friend Dina, who was recently in Sri Lanka, compared dishes to what she ate there—they stood the test.

“This is spicy in a very delightful way,” Murad said of the chutney that came with the vada. He also liked the rasam, calling it flavourful. Dina loved the fluffy rice and the caramelized, flavourful chickpeas. Spencer found the eggplant nice and smoky.

My favourites were the beef and the cuttlefish curry. The pops of mustard seed, curry leaf and chili made me so happy. An honourable mention goes to the kothu roti, where they didn’t skimp on the mutton. Everything was rich, spicy and complex. Danielle called the food warm and invigorating, with flavours from across regions, and “dynamic.”

The prices are incredibly affordable. Mutton rolls, cutlets, samosas and vada appetizers run from $2 to $3. The vegetarian thali is around $19, and most of the main-course curries are about $20. Thayalan suggests the thali if you’re new to Sri Lankan food. I want to go back for the dosa.

He has no plans to open another restaurant. It’s too much work, and he wants to keep the same staff and keep everyone happy. He also works part-time at Canada Post. We left full, with tea he saved for us at the end, and charmed by a kind owner who still cares about serving proper, authentic food to his community. This is a classic Eat the Strip spot, tucked into a new development in Barrhaven, and it’s already one of our favourites of the year. We wish them well and can’t wait to go back.